Cleaning question

[Frump]

These are supposed to shiny bare and black aluminum. Lots of oxidation or something from poor treatment. Anyone have any good hints how how to clean it up a bit? I'm not looking for showroom quality or any sort of tear down parts washer cleanup (yet/ever).

[Lapchik]

Sandblaster, then engine paint, then fine grit sandpaper on the parts [fins] that should be bare. I have aluminum oxide in my blaster cabinet right now.

[DrmRdr]

And then get out the old tooth brush and compound to get the hard places and for that polished shine.

[Lapchik]

Steel wool if it's not too bad. Can't really tell from the picture. If it's just the heads I can blast them for you. I'll be in Sioux City this weekend.

[ST Rich]

I would start with glass beads.
It may take a bit longer to clean, it leaves a nice soft finish that can be polished out or painted from there.

Do not use any caustic dips as that will attack the entire part.

Just my 0.02

Rich

[Frump]

Someone on youtube was using Marvel Mystery Oil to remove aluminum oxidation and some rust. Its is no means great, but it did help me get a lot of the aluminum oxidation off without taking parts off. Would like to see if it runs before I spend a bunch of time and effort making it look nice. Not seeing all that white stuff makes me feel a little better.

Replacing fuel pump, replacing fuel lines/filter, making a new air filter, had injectors serviced and tested, replacing old o-rings, still working on cleaning out the tank. Very few parts are still available for the bike, so everything takes a lot of care and research, especially when you are new to this. High point last week was we finally got the fancy gas cap off the tank on the bike after working with it for nearly 2 months.

[Shooter]

wow that tank is nasty!!!!
Can you find a used one anywhere? Would save you a lot of cleaning and relining.

[Scot229]

http://youtu.be/-WuU1F2VLoI

I've heard some really good stuff about Metal Rescue. You can get it at Menards.

[Lapchik]

That's a turbo, right? Are the bushings in it ok? That may be a deal breaker, as I know turbo parts for a turbo Yamaha Seca are nearly impossible to come by. I've seen Garrett and Precision turbo's swapped in as replacements. Also let me know if you need any custom fabrication stuff done for it, I may be of some help.

[Frump]

Turbo parts are nearly impossible to find, hopefully that won't be an issue. The turbo shouldn't and doesn't appear to be nearly as dirty so far.

We still have to do the sheet metal screw treatment. I have water based evapo-rust remover which we are going to try, but we are going to water it down and let it sit for several days. The rust remover stuff is pretty expensive, something like $100 for 5 gallons. We had soaked it cider viniger for a week or so earlier, just not the cap area. Cleaned tank out at the car wash Saturday with warm soapy water, that helped get a lot of the remaining residue out.

A portion of what we got out in November through the petcock holes and the fuel sensor hole (quarter to show size):


What inside looked like after warm soapy water wash:


I have a second tank, it has less rust, but needs dent removal and more paint. Would like to use the rusty one if we can. I'll take some more photos to show what we end up with.

[Frump]

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xL...directlink

[Lapchik]

WOOHOO!

[Shooter]

It's alive!!!!!!!! Way to go Frump!!!!!! Gonna get it ready in time to ride to the Dual Sport Rally?